Please enjoy the contributions of several graduate scholars at Indiana University who describe regional traditions and how the autumn season is celebrated across Europe.
“The German Autumn Market”
By Ariana Gunderson, Ph.D Candidate in the Department of Anthropology
In Germany, autumn marks the arrival of several beloved foods to fresh markets, grocery stores, and restaurant menus. A fresh crop of local apples arrives just as the we finish the stragglers left from last year’s apples (which by this time are a bit sad!). Spitzkohl, a teardrop-shaped brassica called Pointed or Sweetheart Cabbage in English, comes roaring into season as the weather turns crisp, and it’s put to good use in sautés, curries, and casseroles. But Kürbiszeit (Pumpkin Time) increasingly steals the spotlight, as photogenic pumpkins and gourds grace magazine covers and Instagram feeds. To give the autumn gourd a luxurious treatment, follow one of these German recipes for Kürbissuppe (Pumpkin/Squash Soup) and don’t forget to garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds and a streak of bracing Pumpkin Seed Oil (Kürbiskernöl).
"The ‘Grape’ Days of Nemea”
By Nikolina Zenović, Ph.D. Candidate in the Department of Anthropology
Note: Nikolinagives special thanks to Georgia Zavvou, Maria Benekou, and Argyrios Benekos for sharing their experiences with the author.
Olives are not the only popular fall harvest crop in Greece. Pairing wonderfully with olives and other Mediterranean bites, Greek wines continue onto the next stage in their production process with the grape harvest each fall. Marking the end of summer and the start of the wine grape harvest season, the “Μεγάλες Ημέρες της Νεμέας,” or “Great Days of Nemea,” celebrates regional viticulture in Nemea, Greece every fall.
The Nemea Valley is home to the Balkans’ largest wine-producing region, with well over forty wineries in addition to household wine production. Nemea is especially known for its cultivation of indigenous Agiorgitiko red grapes. The Agiorgitiko variety is very sensitive and needs careful attention throughout the year. Agiorgitiko grapes grown in Nemea, and used in winemaking, are recognized by the Nemea Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), adding to the grape’s significance to local society and economy. According to locals, the name “Agiorgitiko” comes from the name “Agios Georgios,” or “St. George,” the original name of the village of Nemea and name of the small, 14th or 15th Century, church of Saint George in Nemea.
Agiorgitiko wines are very vibrant dry red wines, with notes of red fruits and spices. The maturation process contributes further notes of black fruits, a jammy profile, and hints of vanilla and cinnamon. According to Georgia Zavvou, a winemaker from Zafiri Winery in Nemea, “the best thing about Agiorgitiko is that you can drink it in different ways; you can drink it as a barrel-aged wine, rosé, or fresh red wine, keeping its typicity in every way and making it a four-season wine.” Zavvou highlights that winemaking with Agiorgitiko involves creativity, allowing winemakers to express their personalities through different techniques contributing different aromas and mouthfeels.
The cultivation of Agiorgitiko and other grape varieties is particularly celebrated in Nemea each fall. The “Great Days of Nemea” event is held over a weekend in the first few days of September, marking the conclusion of the raisin grape harvest and start of the wine grape harvest. The event brings Nemeans together along with tourists who travel from around Greece and beyond to celebrate the grape harvest in Nemea. Given the event’s concentration on Nemea’s grape harvest, it could alternatively be called the “Grape Days of Nemea!” Over three days, people gather to enjoy traditional Greek delicacies, taste local Nemean wines, and dance and enjoy performances from some of Greece’s famous singers. For locals, the event is meaningful for a multitude of reasons. First, famers who have been tirelessly maintaining their fields relax and celebrate the start of another fruitful season as they begin the processing stages of raisin production and harvest of wine grapes. Secondly, the event provides short-term job opportunities to locals, especially young people, as wineries and other local businesses around Nemea hire extra people to work during this time. Additionally, during this event, children, locally associated with good fortune and joy, are encouraged to stomp grapes at Nemean wineries in the spirit of good luck for a successful harvest. Overall, the event allows for a pleasant break from everyday life for locals, with the celebrations renewing a sense of life and vitality in Nemea and its surrounding villages.
This past summer marked the twentieth iteration of the “Great Days of Nemea.” The Nemea Winemakers and Vintners Association (ENOAN) began hosting the festivities in 2004, and they have been growing ever since. In 2024, the event was held from August 30th until September 1st and included wine tastings and pairings featuring numerous local wineries and businesses, a masterclass, and a wine festival with musical performances, among other smaller celebrations of local viticulture. Getting the locals into the spirit of the harvest, the “Great Days of Nemea” reenergizes locals, especially local farmers, winemakers, and small businesses, and tourists alike. If you find yourself in Greece as August transitions into September, be sure to visit Nemea and indulge in the region’s beautiful scenery as you celebrate the local harvest and viticulture!
“Festival of Autunno in Barbagia, Sardinia”
By Edoardo Lenza, Master of Music student in Classical Piano Performance, Jacobs School of Music
While Sardinia is famously celebrated for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters, the island has a rich autumnal charm too, as it transforms into a vibrant tapestry of culture and tradition during the fall months. One of the highlights of this season is the captivating festival known as Autunno in Barbagia, which showcases the heart and soul of Sardinian culture.
Running from September to December, Autunno in Barbagia is a unique celebration that takes place in the enchanting Barbagia region, in the center of the island. Each weekend features a different town, allowing visitors to explore the diverse traditions and culinary delights that define this mountainous area.
At the heart of Autunno in Barbagia is a celebration of local products. Each participating town showcases its culinary specialties, traditional cheeses, cured meats, artisanal breads, and typical desserts. As you wander through lively markets, you can taste the region’s famous wines and olive oils, each sip telling a story of the land and its people. This festival is not just a feast for the senses; it’s an opportunity to connect with local producers who are experts at their craft.
Cultural events abound during the festival, with folk music performances and traditional dances bringing the streets to life. The festival also showcases skilled artisans at work, offering demonstrations of pottery, weaving, and other crafts that have been passed down through generations.
For those looking to engage more deeply with the local culture, many towns offer hands-on workshops. These sessions allow you to learn the art of making traditional dishes or creating beautiful handicrafts. The festival is framed in the breathtaking landscapes of the Barbagia region. Rugged mountains, lush valleys, and charming villages create a picturesque backdrop for this experience in the local cultures of Sardinia.
“U.S. Halloween Traditions: A European Import”
By Sara Couch, Graduate student in European Studies
While it may seem decidedly American to sip cider and carve pumpkins on Halloween, the truth is that many of our favorite spooky season traditions are adapted from European pagan rituals dating back more than 2,000 years.
At that time, the Celts were living in what is now the United Kingdom, Ireland, and northern France. They held their festival of Samhain on October 31, the end of harvest season. On the night of Samhain, it was believed that the souls of the dead returned to walk among the living as summer ended and fall began. During Samhain, the Celts sacrificed livestock and crops to prevent gods from casting any misfortune upon them as they entered the darkest, most difficult months of the year.
More of the tricks than the treats of Halloween can be attributed to the celebration of Samhain. Celts played Halloween pranks on one another, often blamed on fairies or other creatures. It was believed that certain monsters and ghouls were associated with Samhain, and during the Middle Ages, fires were lit near farms to protect families from fairies and witches. Yes, your autumn bonfire did not originate in the USA!
The act of displaying a head-like visage such as a jack-o’-lantern also dates to ancient Celtic “head veneration” rituals, where the severed heads of war enemies were prominently displayed outside the home. Celts also carved faces into root vegetables and displayed them to ward off wandering spirits.
Shifts in these autumnal rituals began when Pope Gregory I launched his “Gregorian Mission” in 596 to convert pagans, including the Celts, to Christianity. Gregory aspired for this to be a relatively harmonious process. He instructed his missionaries to convert pagan shrines to Christian ones, but not to interfere with any practices that could be merged with Christianity. He believed that if the Celts and other pagans did not see their customs destroyed, they might eventually associate them with the Christian God and convert to Christianity. Missionaries carried out this process of soft conversion and reframed the harvest sacrifices for the pagan gods into feasts and celebrations to celebrate the God of the Christians.
Continuing with Pope Gregory I’s tradition of coalescing Christian and pagan religion, in 837 AD, Pope Gregory IV moved the Catholic “Feast of All Holy Martyrs”, which originally took place in May, to instead occur on November 1. The holiday was also called “All Saints Day” or “All-hallowmas” making the prior night, October 31, “All-Hallow’s Eve”.
Many years later, in the 19th century, Irish descendants of ancient Celts immigrated to the U.S. It is thought that these Irish immigrants recognized that pumpkins were much more suitable for jack-o’-lanterns than turnips or potatoes. Also arriving with them was the Irish folktale of a man named Stingy Jack. Jack tricked the Devil and consequently was banned from heaven and hell, doomed to walk the Earth with only a hollowed-out turnip with one coal in it to light his way. The Irish called this figure “Jack of the Lantern”, then “Jack O’ Lantern”.
It is also known that ancient Celts wore costumes. Animal skins and face paint were worn for Samhain celebrations on October 31. The Celts imagined that dressing in frightening costumes would scare off wandering spirits. As if the scary faces carved in potatoes and turnips weren’t spooky enough to keep them away!
“European Fall Traditions: Estonia - Mardipäev and Kadripäev”
By Jack Rosswurm, Graduate student in Second Language Studies
Note: Jack gives special thanks to Professor Piibi-Kai Kivik for her assistance with this piece.
All throughout the United States, children wait with excitement for the one day each year when they can dress up in their costumes and run from house to house, trick-or-treating and returning home with bags full of sweets: Halloween! In Estonia, children similarly wait with anticipation to take part in a folk holiday involving costumes and sweets. Unlike in the United States, though, Estonian children get to do this twice in November! On November 10th, Estonians celebrate Mardipäev, or Saint Martin's Day, and they celebrate Kadripäev, or Saint Catherine's Day, on November 25th.
While some aspects of these twin Estonian folk celebrations are similar to Halloween in the United States, there are a few key differences. For one, on Saint Martin's Day, kids are usually grouped together and led along their path by a man, the "Mardi-father," while making a raucous with pots, pans, or other household items that can be banged together. The same thing is done on Saint Catherine's Day, except the group of children is instead led by a women known as the "Kadri-mother." As seen in the pictures, Mardipäev costumes are characterized by darker colors, with several kids dressed as bandits. On Kadripäev, costumes are usually lighter. The importance of music and performance is highlighted by the presence of musical instruments in both photos.
Another important difference is the means of obtaining candy for the children. In the United States, a child need only dress up in a costume and ask the occupants of the residence whether they would like a trick or a treat. In Estonia, on Mardipäev or Kadripäev, however, the kids must actually work for their candy. This might be in the form of a folk ensemble, a short play, or a variety of other performance techniques that will earn them some candy in their bags.
Children in costumes for Mardipäev. Author retrieved image from news.err.ee
Saint Martin's Day and Saint Catherine's Day find their roots in folk traditions and are completely unique to Estonia; no other culture celebrates these traditions in quite the same way. While costume-wearing and candy-eating are important parts of both celebrations, there are some distinctions between them. Saint Martin's Day is associated with the harvest and men's work; whereas Saint Catherine's day places an emphasis on sheep and women's work.
Autumn is considered the "time of the souls" in Estonia. Due to its location in the north of Europe, the weather becomes very cold and dark for much of the year in the fall and winter. Imagine that you live in a house in the suburbs of Tallinn (Estonia's capital), as many Estonians do. You might look out your window to see a dark sky, with a hazy fog lingering above, highlighted by the glow of streetlights. You turn toward your fireplace, grab your favorite book, and take a sip of hot chocolate. Suddenly, you hear a loud banging noise in the distance. Not long after, you notice a procession of kids in costumes, led by a man dressed in dark clothing. You hear kids knocking on your door and open it to find that they're performing a song and dance! Of course, they don't work for free, and you hand out some Kalev chocolates. The kids excitedly dart off to your neighbor's house to put on yet another show and receive yet more candy. You return to your book and hot chocolate knowing that you've contributed to carrying on a tradition found only in Estonia.